Havana

The Havana issue, November 2026

Havana

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The Havana reading list

All 47 Havana stories

More from the Havana issue

Getting Around Havana Without a Car When Fuel Is Short

Getting Around Havana Without a Car When Fuel Is Short

Oliver Nash
Havana's classic car tours: riding in style through the city

Havana's classic car tours: riding in style through the city

Oliver Nash
Havana This Fall Is Worth It If You Plan Hard

Havana This Fall Is Worth It If You Plan Hard

Oliver Nash
The rum trail: from cane field to aged barrel and the bars that pour it

The rum trail: from cane field to aged barrel and the bars that pour it

Oliver Nash
Planning Havana Around the Blackouts and Empty Streets

Planning Havana Around the Blackouts and Empty Streets

Oliver Nash
Two Nights in Havana and One Day in the Viñales Valley

Two Nights in Havana and One Day in the Viñales Valley

Oliver Nash
How to walk Cayo Hueso, Havana's rumba barrio

How to walk Cayo Hueso, Havana's rumba barrio

Oliver Nash
Plaza de la Revolución and the Havana streets around it

Plaza de la Revolución and the Havana streets around it

Oliver Nash
Riding Shotgun: A Local's Classic-Car Tour Through Havana's Neighborhoods

Riding Shotgun: A Local's Classic-Car Tour Through Havana's Neighborhoods

Oliver Nash
Walking Callejón de Hamel and Cayo Hueso in Havana

Walking Callejón de Hamel and Cayo Hueso in Havana

Oliver Nash
The Havana Hotels That Stay Cool When the Power Cuts

The Havana Hotels That Stay Cool When the Power Cuts

Oliver Nash
Havana in October, When the Heat Finally Lets Go

Havana in October, When the Heat Finally Lets Go

Oliver Nash
Havana Still Works If You Plan Around the Blackouts

Havana Still Works If You Plan Around the Blackouts

Oliver Nash
Where to Stand Above Havana and See It Whole

Where to Stand Above Havana and See It Whole

Oliver Nash
What to Settle Before You Book Havana on a US Passport

What to Settle Before You Book Havana on a US Passport

Oliver Nash
Havana's Casas Particulares Keep Their Own Lights On

Havana's Casas Particulares Keep Their Own Lights On

Oliver Nash
Where Havana Still Plays Unamplified: Inside the City's Living Son Cubano Underground

Where Havana Still Plays Unamplified: Inside the City's Living Son Cubano Underground

Oliver Nash
Santeria in Havana: The Drums, the Saints and the Religion That Outlived the Revolution

Santeria in Havana: The Drums, the Saints and the Religion That Outlived the Revolution

Oliver Nash
Landing in Havana with Enough Cash and Enough Patience

Landing in Havana with Enough Cash and Enough Patience

Oliver Nash
Marianao, the Havana district behind Tropicana

Marianao, the Havana district behind Tropicana

Oliver Nash
Havana's Nuevo Vedado, from Colón cemetery to the Almendares

Havana's Nuevo Vedado, from Colón cemetery to the Almendares

Oliver Nash
Walking La Cabaña, the fort ridge above Havana Bay

Walking La Cabaña, the fort ridge above Havana Bay

Oliver Nash
Havana After Dark in Its Jazz Rooms and Dance Halls

Havana After Dark in Its Jazz Rooms and Dance Halls

Oliver Nash
How to Cross Havana Without a Tank of Petrol

How to Cross Havana Without a Tank of Petrol

Oliver Nash
Santa María del Mar, Havana's beach and villa district

Santa María del Mar, Havana's beach and villa district

Oliver Nash
Havana Is Worth the Trip If You Plan Around the Grid

Havana Is Worth the Trip If You Plan Around the Grid

Oliver Nash
The Malecón at Twilight: Havana's Five-Mile Seawall and the City That Lives on It

The Malecón at Twilight: Havana's Five-Mile Seawall and the City That Lives on It

Oliver Nash
Packing for Havana When the Lights Go Out

Packing for Havana When the Lights Go Out

Oliver Nash
Walking Havana's Barrio Chino from the arch to Cuchillo

Walking Havana's Barrio Chino from the arch to Cuchillo

Oliver Nash
Fifteen Places to Look Down on Havana

Fifteen Places to Look Down on Havana

Oliver Nash
Getting to Viñales from Havana When the Fuel Runs Short

Getting to Viñales from Havana When the Fuel Runs Short

Oliver Nash
How Havana Turns Fifteen-Year-Old Girls Into Queens for a Day

How Havana Turns Fifteen-Year-Old Girls Into Queens for a Day

Oliver Nash
Havana Airport to Your Casa Without the Scramble

Havana Airport to Your Casa Without the Scramble

Oliver Nash
Havana's Cigar Trail: From Factory Floor to Lounge Chair

Havana's Cigar Trail: From Factory Floor to Lounge Chair

Oliver Nash
Jaimanitas, the Havana barrio Fuster covered in mosaic

Jaimanitas, the Havana barrio Fuster covered in mosaic

Oliver Nash
How to spend a day in Guanabo, Havana's beach town

How to spend a day in Guanabo, Havana's beach town

Oliver Nash
Playas del Este When Havana Wears You Out

Playas del Este When Havana Wears You Out

Oliver Nash
Fusterlandia: The Gaudí of the Caribbean and Havana's Most Surprising Neighbourhood

Fusterlandia: The Gaudí of the Caribbean and Havana's Most Surprising Neighbourhood

Oliver Nash
Walking Havana's Almendares river park and Kohly forest

Walking Havana's Almendares river park and Kohly forest

Oliver Nash
From Kitchen Window to Table: Havana's Paladares and the Home-Restaurant Revolution

From Kitchen Window to Table: Havana's Paladares and the Home-Restaurant Revolution

Oliver Nash
The Rolling Museum: Havana's Classic American Cars and the Mechanics Who Keep Them Alive

The Rolling Museum: Havana's Classic American Cars and the Mechanics Who Keep Them Alive

Oliver Nash
How Havana Fell Back in Love With the Bicycle

How Havana Fell Back in Love With the Bicycle

Oliver Nash

An insider’s read on Havana

Havana’s identity is forged from its strategic position as the gateway to the Spanish Empire’s New World wealth, a legacy visible in its massive stone fortifications. The city transitioned from a wealthy colonial port to a mid-century playground of casinos, mobsters, and modernist architecture, before the 1959 Revolution froze its physical landscape in time. Today, its character is defined by the Cuban concept of 'resolver' — the daily art of overcoming material shortages with creativity and humor.

This resilience has fostered a community where art, dance, and intellectual life thrive despite economic isolation.

Havana
Havana, Cuba

The air smells of salt spray from the Malecón, unrefined diesel from mid-century American sedans, and the sweet, heavy scent of tropical decay.

From our Havana guide

20 neighbourhoods, 20 ways to stay

Pick the neighbourhood first and the trip follows. Each one opens its own guide, with the hotels inside it.

Habana Vieja

Habana Vieja

First-time visitors who want to be steps from major historic sights, though they must tolerate persistent street hustlers.

The historic core, dense with Spanish colonial architecture, cobblestone plazas, and constant street noise.

Where to stay Boutique private guesthouses (casas particulares) restored to high standards, offering a mix of historic character and modern comfort.

Stay in Habana Vieja
Centro Habana

Centro Habana

Adventurous travelers seeking an authentic slice of working-class Havana, accepting the trade-off of poorly lit streets and noise.

Gritty, densely populated, and unvarnished. Peeling pastel facades, laundry hanging over balconies, and vibrant street life.

Where to stay Basic, budget-friendly homestays that offer an immersive look into daily Cuban life.

Stay in Centro Habana
Vedado

Vedado

Those who prefer a quieter, greener environment with excellent nightlife and dining, though it requires a taxi ride to the old town.

A mid-century modern district with wide, tree-lined streets, Art Deco mansions, and a relaxed, middle-class atmosphere.

Where to stay Stately 1930s villas converted into boutique hotels or spacious private apartments.

Stay in Vedado
Miramar

Miramar

Business travelers or families seeking quiet luxury and security, far from the chaotic energy of the city center.

An upscale, quiet residential neighborhood home to foreign embassies, grand mansions, and manicured avenues.

Where to stay High-end modern hotels or expansive private villas with swimming pools.

Stay in Miramar
Playa

Playa

Art enthusiasts and travelers seeking a slower, suburban pace of life.

A sprawling suburban municipality west of Miramar, characterized by quiet streets and community art initiatives.

Where to stay Private suburban homes with gardens and pools, ideal for longer stays.

Stay in Playa
Regla

Regla

Cultural purists looking for spiritual history, accepting that there are almost no tourist amenities or hotels.

A working-class township across the bay, deeply rooted in Afro-Cuban religious traditions and Santería.

Where to stay Not recommended for overnight stays; best visited as a day trip.

Stay in Regla
Casablanca

Casablanca

History buffs and photographers looking for quiet walks and military fortifications.

A quiet, hillside village across the harbor entrance, offering panoramic views of the Havana skyline.

Where to stay Very limited local homestays; most visitors return to the city center before dark.

Stay in Casablanca
Cojímar

Cojímar

Literary pilgrims seeking a quiet seaside lunch away from the urban core.

A sleepy fishing village east of the city, famous as the setting for Ernest Hemingway’s 'The Old Man and the Sea'.

Where to stay A handful of quiet, seaside casas particulares.

Stay in Cojímar
Siboney

Siboney

Diplomats, VIPs, and groups looking for absolute privacy and luxury villa rentals.

An exclusive, leafy suburban enclave of large estates, once home to pre-revolutionary elites.

Where to stay Expansive luxury villas with private security, lush gardens, and swimming pools.

Stay in Siboney
La Cabaña

La Cabaña

The fortress district across the bay combines huge harbor views, military history, sunset walks and Havana's famous nightly cannon ceremony. Arrive before sunset and stay for the 9 p.m. cannon ceremony; dry-season evenings are most comfortable.

Stay in La Cabaña
Cayo Hueso

Cayo Hueso

One of central Havana's most atmospheric local neighborhoods, combining Afro-Cuban culture, street rumba, murals, domino games and neighborhood bars. Sunday-afternoon rumba at Callejón de Hamel is the signature timing.

Stay in Cayo Hueso
Callejón de Hamel

Callejón de Hamel

A highly focused Afro-Cuban art-and-music enclave where visitors come for murals, sculpture, rumba and an eccentric open-air cultural atmosphere. Sunday rumba is the best time to visit; arrive before the performance gets crowded.

Stay in Callejón de Hamel
Plaza de la Revolución

Plaza de la Revolución

Havana's monumental civic quarter is worth a dedicated stop for giant revolutionary imagery, broad public spaces and major national landmarks. Go early or near sunset for cooler temperatures and better light across the square.

Stay in Plaza de la Revolución
Jaimanitas

Jaimanitas

A colorful seaside neighborhood known for José Fuster's mosaic-covered homes, playful public art and an easygoing residential atmosphere. Visit in daylight, when Fusterlandia's mosaics are easiest to see; winter and spring offer the most comfortable temperatures.

Stay in Jaimanitas
Santa María del Mar

Santa María del Mar

The most accessible of Havana's eastern beaches for swimming, beach bars and a relaxed half-day away from the city's historic streets. Best from November to April; summer weekends are livelier but hotter and more crowded.

Stay in Santa María del Mar
Guanabo

Guanabo

The liveliest eastern-beach town near Havana, with a broad sandy shore, informal seafood restaurants, bars and a distinctly local holiday atmosphere. Go on a weekday for a quieter beach; summer and holiday weekends bring the strongest local atmosphere but the biggest crowds.

Stay in Guanabo
Barrio Chino

Barrio Chino

A compact central quarter for Chinese-Cuban history, colorful street scenes, casual restaurants and a short wander around Calle Cuchillo.

Stay in Barrio Chino
Parque Metropolitano and Almendares

Parque Metropolitano and Almendares

Havana's main urban escape offers shaded riverside walks, tropical vegetation, picnic spots and a striking contrast with the city's dense historic core. Best during the dry season, especially November to April, when trails are less muddy and the heat is milder.

Stay in Parque Metropolitano and Almendares
Marianao

Marianao

A western nightlife district with Havana's most famous cabaret tradition, plus music venues and a glimpse of the city's less polished local side. Reserve Tropicana performances ahead when possible; evening visits are the main reason to come.

Stay in Marianao
Nuevo Vedado

Nuevo Vedado

A leafy mid-century district that rewards visitors interested in Cuban modernism, landmark cemeteries, grand houses and quieter local streets. The cemetery and residential streets are most comfortable in the cooler, drier months from November to April.

Stay in Nuevo Vedado

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The Havana guide

Where to eat, drink and look, how to get around, and what locals expect of you. Open any chapter.

Where to eat

Dining

16 places
Santy Pescador
Jaimanitas€€€

Santy Pescador

Located in a rustic wooden house on a canal, this spot serves the freshest raw fish and sushi in Havana, sourced directly from local boats.

Signature: Fresh tuna sashimi and grilled red snapper

La Terraza de Cojímar
Cojímar€€

La Terraza de Cojímar

A historic waterfront restaurant where Ernest Hemingway dined with his captain, Gregorio Fuentes, offering views of the bay.

Signature: Paella Marinera

El Templete
Habana Vieja€€€

El Templete

Situated right on the harbor, this classic establishment offers Spanish-style seafood preparation with a view of the bay.

Signature: Basque-style cod with garlic and olive oil

El Carbón
Habana Vieja€€€

El Carbón

This rustic-chic paladar specializes in traditional Cuban charcoal-grilling techniques, delivering intense smoky flavors.

Signature: Slow-roasted suckling pig (Lechón Asado)

Vistamar
Miramar€€€

Vistamar

Offers oceanfront dining where you can hear the waves crash while eating meats grilled over open flames.

Signature: Grilled pork chops with mojo marinade

El Del Frente
Habana Vieja€€

El Del Frente

A stylish rooftop space known for serving creative, modern Cuban small plates alongside some of the best cocktails in the city.

Signature: Tostones stuffed with shredded beef (ropa vieja)

O'Reilly 304
Habana Vieja€€

O'Reilly 304

A narrow, energetic bar serving gin-focused cocktails and a fusion of Cuban and international small plates.

Signature: Lobster tacos with mango salsa

Jíbaro
Habana Vieja€€

Jíbaro

Located in a quieter part of the old town, this spot serves thoughtful, updated versions of classic Cuban comfort food.

Signature: Deconstructed Ropa Vieja

La Guarida
Centro Habana€€€€

La Guarida

Housed on the top floor of a majestic, decaying 20th-century palace, this is Havana's most famous restaurant, offering theatrical ambiance and creative cuisine.

Signature: Papaya lasagna with salmorejo sauce

Otramanera
Miramar€€€€

Otramanera

A sleek, contemporary restaurant offering Michelin-caliber execution of Spanish-Cuban fusion in a minimalist setting.

Signature: Slow-cooked egg with potato foam and truffle oil

San Cristóbal Paladar
Centro Habana€€€

San Cristóbal Paladar

Famous for hosting world leaders, this restaurant is packed with eclectic antiques and serves exceptional, traditional Creole-Cuban cuisine.

Signature: Solomillo San Cristóbal (beef tenderloin with mushroom sauce)

El Chanchullero
Habana Vieja€

El Chanchullero

A quirky, multi-level bar and restaurant with a rebellious attitude, serving cheap, delicious, and filling plates.

Signature: Chili-garlic shrimp served with avocado and rice

El Dandy
Habana Vieja€

El Dandy

A cozy, vintage-styled cafe on Plaza del Cristo, perfect for cheap sandwiches, strong coffee, and people-watching.

Signature: Pork sliders with plantain chips

La Bien Pautada
Vedado€

La Bien Pautada

A straightforward local spot serving massive portions of Cuban creole food at very low prices.

Signature: Arroz con Pollo (chicken and yellow rice)

Lo de Monik
Habana Vieja€€

Lo de Monik

A bright, modern cafe offering excellent breakfast bowls, fresh fruit juices, and vegetarian-friendly lunch options.

Signature: Veggie tacos with black beans and avocado

California Café
Vedado€€

California Café

An American-style diner that offers a reliable selection of vegetarian burgers, salads, and fresh juices.

Signature: Lentil and chickpea burger

Timing

When to visit

Winter (December to February)

Warm days, cool evenings, and minimal rainfall. This is peak tourist season, meaning higher accommodation rates and crowded historic plazas.

Spring (March to May)

An ideal shoulder season. The humidity is manageable, temperatures are warm, and the winter crowds have thinned out.

Summer (June to August)

Extremely hot and humid. This period coincides with domestic holidays and afternoon thunderstorms, making midday exploration exhausting.

Autumn (September to November)

The height of the Caribbean hurricane season. While prices are at their lowest, there is a persistent risk of tropical storms and heavy rain.

What it costs

Budgeting

Backpacker
€40-60
Mid-range
€100-180
Luxury
€300+

Logistics

Getting around

Map of Havana

From the airport

José Martí International Airport is located about 15 miles from the city center. There are no reliable public transit links for tourists; a private taxi is the only practical option. Agree on a flat rate with the driver before getting in, typically paid in foreign currency.

Public transit

Local buses, known as guaguas, are severely overcrowded and difficult for visitors to navigate. Shared fixed-route taxis, called almendrones, are vintage American cars that run along main avenues, but they require a solid understanding of local geography and payment in local currency.

Passes & tickets

There are no tourist transit or museum passes available in Havana; all transport and entry fees must be paid individually.

On foot

Habana Vieja is highly compact and entirely walkable, with many pedestrianized streets. However, traversing between neighborhoods like Vedado, Centro Habana, and Miramar requires motorized transport due to the distances and broken sidewalks.

Local etiquette

Safety & etiquette

  • Always tip service staff; 10% is standard in restaurants and highly appreciated due to low local wages.
  • Avoid discussing sensitive political topics unless a local brings it up first.
  • Be mindful of resource scarcity; do not waste water or leave air conditioning running when out of your room.

Travel smart

Practical tips

  1. Download offline navigation apps like Maps.me or Organic Maps before landing.
  2. Bring your own toiletries, over-the-counter medications, and sunscreen, as these are incredibly difficult to find locally.
  3. Always negotiate taxi fares before stepping into the vehicle.
  4. Keep small denomination bills (Euros, USD, or CUP) handy for tipping and small purchases.
  5. Book your casas particulares in advance via platforms like Airbnb to secure reliable lodging.
  6. Don't fall for the 'today is the last day of the cigar cooperative discount' scam.

Before you go

Havana FAQs

What currency should I bring to Havana?

Bring physical Euros or US Dollars. The official exchange rate is poor, so tourists exchange cash on the informal market (check current rates online via El Toque). Credit cards are rarely accepted and run on the official rate.

Do I need a tourist card/visa to enter?

Yes, most nationalities require a Tourist Card (Tarjeta de Turista), which can be purchased from your airline or Cuban consulate before travel. US citizens have specific travel categories (e.g., 'Support for the Cuban People').

How do I get internet access in Havana?

Buy an ETECSA SIM card (Cubacel Tur) online before arriving or purchase NAUTA scratch cards to access public Wi-Fi zones in parks and hotel lobbies.

Is it safe to drink tap water?

No, always drink bottled water. Ensure the seal is intact, or use water purification tablets/filters.

Can I use my US credit card?

No, US-issued credit and debit cards do not work in Cuba due to the embargo. Bring all the cash you will need for your entire trip.